Des n Tam >>>> tHe BiG tRip >>>>>> hOmE

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Edinburgh - Perfect one day, gloomy the next

Having not been put off by our last coach escapade to Paris, we booked in another weekend getaway to Edinburgh. Good news in relation to Paris though as I managed to complain enough to get us a £20 refund each from that shocker Paris return coach trip. Now the only part of the UK we haven't been to yet is Northern Ireland. Guess we'll just have to come back again one day to visit Lucy & Brian in Belfast.

We caught the overnight coach from Victoria to Edinburgh and arrived at 6:30am in the morning. Unlike Paris, the coach station in Edinburgh is conveniently located right in the centre of town. Anyway, perhaps we've just been watching Little Britain too much, but the image I had of Scotland was wet and rainy. However, we arrived and it was a brilliant blue sunny day. Well, it was still early and not that bright but you could tell straight away it was going to be a good day.

This is the Scott Monument. Looks like a rocket ship ready to blast off.


Edinburgh does have a very charming old world feel to it and it is very green.


This the view from Princes Street of Edinburgh Old Town overlooking Waverley Train Station.


We headed off from the main street down the Royal Mile towards Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano you can climb up that offers excellent views of Edinburgh. This is the The World's End pub, where we were served by one of the many Aussies working in the hospitality industry there. Can't really complain as some of the locals have the thickest Scottish accents making communication with them harder than getting our tax back from the UK Government.


Further down the road we encountered this unfortunate statue outside the Canongate Kirk. Someone (presumably someone on the drink) had managed to wedge this metal pipe up between his thighs.


At the end of the Royal Mile is Spanish-designed (and 800% over budget) Scottish Parliament Buildings. On the wall here is a scratchy picture of Edinburgh based on a sketch the architect made of the view from his hotel room. On the right is a funky (not) rock collection.


It's a very interesting set of buildings to look at and also very weird. Tam and I both didn't think it was appropriate for the Scottish Parliament (probably more apt for a museum), but maybe that's their sense of humour shining through. To me, it seemed as if the Jetsons had landed at Bedrock and decided to help Fred Flintstone and Barney Rubble upgrade their stone mansions with futuristic Gaudi-ish extensions.


Still, it's not bad to look at. More impressive was the apparently individual weird metal rings (on the bottom-right of the photo under the dark green tree) that served as bike racks. From this angle they form the image of a bicycle. OOOooo clever.


Opposite the Scottish Parliament and at the end of the Royal Mile is The Queen's Gallery and Holyrood Palace. We went into the Queen's Gallery and found a gift shop full of all things Queen-related (that's HM Queen Elizabeth II, not the Freddie Mercury one). As you can tell, it's very cold.


Just on the right of Holyrood Palace is Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags. Being such a nice day, we decided to get all the tiring touristy things done first so we could just laze about drinking and checking out the shops later on. And as it was still early morning, it was a perfect time to climb and avoid the scorching (ha ha) midday sun. There's our destination, way up that way.


Looking back over our trail towards Edinburgh.


Old houses and chimneys over in Leith.


After trailing and losing a bunny rabbit and mistaking a dog for a bear, we make it to the top.


It's a good thing Tam was wearing her Puma rockclimbing shoes.


Views from the top.




That's Tops!


The pretty little (artificially-formed) Dunsapie Loch on the other side of Holyrood Park away from the main town. Full of swans and other birdys. There were lots of swans all around there as well. Some (presumably Chinese) tourists walked through a trio of them taking photos and trying to stroke their necks. Guess they didn't hear about the swan that died from bird flu.


We then made the trek back into town towards Edinburgh Castle, stopping along the way to visit St Gile's Cathedral. I was very impressed by the fantastic crown spire - it looks like another rocket ship parked on the roof of the tower.


Views from inside.








And another shot of the outside.


Then we crossed and found ourselves at The Hub, home of the Edinburgh International Festival, which is housed in a tall, gothic cathedral-like building. They have a cafe in there too (as well as a clown cow) and we had some yummy breakfast and coffee there.


Just outside the castle looking back down the Royal Mile. The lighthouse shaped building is the Camera Obscura building, with its funny carnival mirrors along the sidewalk (making you look tall and lanky or like a little teapot short and stout - no difference in my case, ok, maybe just shorter), and the gothic Hub on the right.


Edinburgh Castle, with the impending swarms of cash-loaded tourists lining up to get in. Now, we've done castles (and churches, cathedrals, etc.) and after a while, although still a novelty, they just get a bit same-ish. We couldn't be bothered lining up or fronting up the £10.30 to get in (especially when our guide books say that the entry fee used to be £7 not so long ago - what a rort!!).


Robert the Bruce


Mel Gibson


William Wallace freaking out the tourists and begging for spare change for leukemia patients - "the real Bravehearts" (oh bless)


Old Town and Edinburgh Castle.


Thus concluded our documented touristic activities for the weekend. All the rest is a blur of drink and food in various pubs around town. No really, we caught the shuttle bus to our hostel (The Globetrotter Inn) near the Firth of Forth. This happened to be our first real dorm-style backpacking experience. According to the SMH, we're in the Flashpacker category. We dropped off our daypacks and freshened up before having a nice little stroll along the water. We then jumped back onto the shuttle bus to get into town where we visited a couple of pubs and divey student pubs before settling in at the busy, but charming Clever Dick's pub on the Royal Mile, which is filled with all manner of interesting bric-a-brac.


The reason our touristic meanderings sort of ended there on the Saturday was due to the fact that we woke up on Sunday and the weather had turned shite. Sunday was taken up by a bit of windowshopping and whatever else we felt like doing, which wasn't much considering it was standard Scottish crap weather. We did end up back down the other end of the Royal Mile on our quest for a decent fridge magnet and decided to have a look inside the Scottish Parliament building. We found out that you have to pay for the guided tour and that access is restricted to the foyer, cafe and gift shop - even though they still make you go through security to enter the building. After that we just headed back up through the shops and souvenir shops escaping from the rain every now and then into the pub.

We also went to find the Water of Leith, a stream flowing through the city. Nothing spectacular. 'Nuff said. We then headed back into Clever Dick's where we chilled out and sampled a "Wee Taste of Scotland", a traditional dish of Haggis (a mix of sheep's heart, liver, and lungs, minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and boiled in the animal's stomach for approximately an hour - mmm tasty), neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes)! The haggis wasn't too bad. One of the Aussie bartenders at the World's End pub was describing haggis to some American girls who'd never heard of haggis before. He said it was similar to a sausage or meat pie, but much tastier and much more healthier. Well, it does go down well with some Belhaven Best bitter.


This is one of our final views of Edinburgh. Foggy, wet and eerie. Just what I thought London would be like (but, it isn't). That's Jenner's there on the right. That's right ladies, the world's first department store. We did have a look inside, and I don't think they've made any improvements to it at all. It's no Galeries LaFayette. 'Nuff said.

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Oh deer!

On Sunday we visited Richmond Park for a picnic. We took the long way to get there and also had to make our way through the Duathlon that was being run (and cycled) that day.

Saw heaps of deer. At first we thought that maybe all the people around would scare them off. We saw a few off in the distance while we ate, but weren't sure whether they were deer or goats. They turned out to be deer. And then deer just appeared everywhere. Sorry about the quality of the photos, we didn't bring our camera but took some snapshots using Tam's phone.

A red deer


You can't really tell but there's a herd of deer lazing in the shade under the trees. You can see their antlers moving about between the tree trunks.


We fed some of our carrot sticks to these ones.


A fallow deer. Everyone in the park kept calling them Bambi.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Brighton-le-Pebbles

Last weekend I finally managed to visit Brighton. Having previously been last year when she was still a lady of leisure, this was Tam's second trip, and she showed me around like a local. We had a late start, but it was a glorious day so we got some greasy full English from our local Wetherspoon's for brunch and headed to Victoria Station to catch the train to Brighton. After some minor issues with our cheap day return tickets being more expensively than what it said on the website and also with the train leaving without us (when we were there hitting the buttons to open the doors), we managed to get there still early afternoon-ish.

After a quick stop at the shopping centre, we headed down to the beach. It seems like so long since we've seen the ocean (no, the Channel doesn't count). That's Brighton Pier over in the back.


After frolicking lightly in the water for a bit, we made our way over to the Pier stopping to sample some local treats. At £1 a pot, we decided on some cockles.


Mmmm, tastes like salt and sand. Crunchy!


Tam with her keen photographer's eye captures the moment when a loutish boy jumps off one of the many do-not-jump-off piers.


Brighton Pier. Check out all the mangy seagulls.


And looking back down along the beach. In the distance you can see the West Pier that burned down in March 2003. I guess nobody wanted to clean it up. Still, it's an interesting sight.


Tam taunting a massive seagull


The Pier is like a fun and entertainment house for adults and kids alike. Inside the main building they have video games and dance machines and stuff like that for the kids. Then, right next to that they have slot machines (pokies) and other assorted gambling machines for the adults. They've also got some cool rides outside, and one that's exactly the same as the Sizzler back in Funland in Ulladulla! I can still remember Tom telling me that someone lost a leg riding that once and that blood went everywhere. I still don't know if it was true or not. And no, we didn't try any of the rides.


Tam lazing it up on the Pier. She's actually laughing at some old dude sitting next to her who's conked out and snoring like a rhino.


Catching up with some old friends. Still couldn't get him to explain why he never wrote us.


We then decided to head back into town and grab some lunch. We had done some research on the internet and Brighton has one of the top ten fish and chip shops in the UK - Bardley's Brighton. We knew the address and I'd drawn a rough map, but it wasn't good enough so we had to roam around town a bit until we found it. We walked through some open-air markets and past some very expensive boutiques (picking up some vanilla clotted cream fudge and some bailey's fudge along the way). So we eventually found Bardley's and rewarded ourselves with some of fish and chips and some mushy peas (as our vegetables) and took it out to the park to eat (take away was cheaper yeh). And it was quite tasty indeed with our haddock deep fried to perfection with the meat still juicy and tender inside *drool*

No, we didn't jet over to India, this is the Royal Pavillion located just near the beach.


There's also a nice garden/park here full of arty/trendy types and goth kids.




And then back again to the beach where we grabbed a lazy drink at one of the beach bars. We went to honeybar (as we'd seen a sandwich board up advertising their daily happy hour specials), but I wouldn't recommend it as they were very cheeky indeed and decided to cancel Happy Hour. What a rort!

(Another) merry-go-round.


Chillin' at Brighton in our Havaiana's (from Croatia)


The West Pier


Ye gads! It's low tide and what's that? Sand!! The only nasty thing was Tam thought that there was all these worms everywhere. We then had a revelation that it was just seagull shit everywhere.


As it was low tide, it was now possible to walk up and check out the damage.


Check out all the shellfish! Is that what we were ate before?


Sunset at the beach. Priceless.